How to Eat in Spain as a Visitor – Part 3 of 3

Coffee

My parents were rebels; they were British and they both drank coffee. There was never any tea in their house at all. But tea is a very British thing, isn’t it? And if tea is British ‚Äì despite originating in southeast Asia ‚Äì than what does that make coffee? About as misunderstood at tea…

In Canada, there is a romantic vision of coffee that comes from Italy. Espresso, Cappuccino, even the grande latte of the countless Starbucks shops all come (roughly in the latter case) from the Italian language. But coffee is no more Italian than tea is British.

The Italians may have been the first Europeans to drink coffee and they may have invented and later perfected the espresso machine, but the plant comes from Africa and the modern beverage from the Arab world.

In any case, as a soon-to-be naturalized Spaniard, I can assure you that some of the world’s best coffee is served here.

The ins and outs of Spanish Coffee

The history of coffee is a fascinating subject but I doubt that there’s a coffee drinker in the world who wants to hear about it before that first cup in the morning. I for one don’t want to interact with anyone until I’m at least half-way through that indispensible first coffee of the day.

But locating that perfect morning (or afternoon or evening) beverage as a newcomer to Spain may pose some challenges. The options here are virtually limitless but that isn’t much help to a half-asleep visitor who doesn’t know the ins and outs of coffee in Spain. This list should help you find what you are looking for. (This is all highly subjective…)

Standards

Café con leche: Half coffee, half steamed milk. Like a latte but better. When I went back to Canada after nearly three years in Madrid I could never quite satisfy my urge for this drink.

Caf√© solo: Coffee on its own, or ‘alone’. Elsewhere known as an espresso.

Caf√© cortado: caf√© solo with a splash of milk. Great for after a meal if a caf√© con leche seems like too much. The proportions of milk and coffee will vary regionally, but you can specify how you like it ‚Äì see the ‘Variations’ section.

Caf√© con hielo: Caf√© solo served with a separate glass of ice. Mix in the sugar while it’s hot and pour it into the glass to chill. Who says caffeine and heat don’t mix? Note: I just found out that this is called a caf√© del tiempo in Valencia, but don’t worry, they will know what you mean either way.

Caf√© manchado: Coffee isn’t always easy in Spain. In Madrid this means a small glass of milk ‘stained’ with coffee, though not everywhere. Valencians would never order it this way. Maybe it’s a nube in Andaluc√≠a? I’m not too worried about it because no real coffee drinker wants something so weak anyway…

Caf√© americano: Spain’s answer to people needing weaker coffee. Caf√© solo with extra hot water. Still very much stronger than a North American drip coffee. If you don’t take you coffee black, ask for leche.

Caf√© bomb√≥n: Half coffee, half condensed milk. It’s like dessert and coffee in the same glass.

Carajillo: Coffee with a shot of brandy (coñac) or other specified liquor. Sugar is provided if you want to add it. One of my personal favourites.

NOTE: You can ask them to add whatever kind of liqueur you like to any kind of coffee. If you want a cortado with rum, just order a cortado de ron, etc. (See the ‘curiosities’ section)

Variations

I would feel somewhat precious asking for some tiny variation on a standard coffee in Canada ‚Äì it’s not the done thing. That does not apply in Spain. Every Spaniard knows how important the perfect coffee is. Get it the way you want it.

Even though you can pretty much ask for anything you want when it comes to Spain’s delicious coffee, these are the ‘standard’ variations that will be most useful:

Largo de caf√©: literally ‘long on coffee’, for those wanting a stronger caf√© con leche, cortado etc.

Corto de caf√©: ‘short on coffee’, applies to everything but a caf√© solo.

Con leche templada: with warm milk

Con leche caliente: with hot milk

Con leche fría: with cold milk

Descafeinado: When you order a decaf coffee, you should always specify which kind you want:

• De sobre: instant coffee ‚Äì always available
• De m√°quina: ‘from the machine’ ‚Äì real decaf, not always available

En vaso: You can always ask for your coffee in a glass if you prefer that to a cup. Depending on the region and the type of coffee you order, it may come in one anyway.

Curiosities

I can’t promise that ordering these will get you anywhere – regional variations aren’t always exported to the rest of Spain ‚Äì but they’re interesting enough to note for those with the desire to explore further.

Caf√© belmonte: This is a caf√© bomb√≥n with brandy or other liquor ‚Äì a variation on the carajillo. Aparently only a standard in Murcia and potentially named after a bullfighter, though that’s far from confirmed.

Caf√© trif√°sico: I’ve heard that this is what they call a cortado with alcohol in Barcelona. Coffee, milk and brandy or other spirit.

Café nube: This is a very weak café con leche known by this name in southern Spain, or maybe just in Andalucía.

Café sombra: A slighlty stronger café nube and in the same region.

Café desgraciado: decaf coffee with skim milk – this must only be available in specialty health-oriented establishments. (I doubt that most cafes have skimmed milk.)

Café irlandés: Not really a curiosity as you can get an Irish coffee just about anywhere, but I have to say that the Spanish version can be fantastic. I served bar for a while in Madrid and I used to hate getting orders for these because it was a real production – the results are worth it.

Tip of the iceburg

If what you’re looking for isn’t on this list, don’t worry. With a little Spanish you can order a coffee any way you like it. One thing I can say is that it will be good. I love Spanish coffee.

There is virtually no end to what can be done with coffee, both in Spain and in the rest of the world. If you just have to know more, you can start here.

Need a coffee right now?

Go get one! I’ll be back next week with more ramblings about the cultural and gastronomic landscape of Spain.

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