In actuality, that first Spanish breakfast suited me perfectly. I’m not much of a morning person and I can seldom shake myself awake enough to tackle more than a coffee in the first hour or two of consciousness. I had a hard time convincing my friend’s mother that half a pound of protein wasn’t what I needed as soon as I opened my eyes, but enjoyed the wonderful coffee and delicious pastry that she served me nonetheless.

In the fourteen or so years that have passed since then, my breakfast habits haven’t changed much. Now that I’m living in Spain again after a decade’s absence, I find that the morning’s culinary offerings suit me quite well. Breakfast in Spain is usually served just the way I like it: light and late.

Desayuno

I’ve always found the etymology of the English word breakfast quite charming. I can’t remember when I learned that it literally meant to break the fast of the night, but I do remember wondering why this simple explanation had never occurred to me before. In Spanish it’s exactly the same. Desayuno is the compound of des, a negative prefix much like the English dis, and ayuno, meaning ‘fast’. You’d think that the meal these terms describe would be just as similar – they’re not.

Now, before I start making sweeping generalizations about what English, Spanish and Canadian breakfasts are like, I should acknowledge that the morning meal is a very personal one the world over – at least in the parts of the world that I have explored. Those who drink coffee will never part with it; tea drinkers are equally adamant about their preferred beverage; fresh juice can cause serious fanaticism. There are generalities, however.

All Breakfasts, Great and Small

Although I was somewhat taken aback by my friend’s mother’s insistence that I must want a giant serving of meat and eggs to start the day, it wasn’t a completely alien concept to me. In Canada there are a lot of people who choose to fuel up for the day within the first hour, I’ve just never been one of them. For me, the morning has always been the time to drink coffee with abandon while I wait for lunch to provide some food of substance. I’m not sure that this is the healthiest approach, but it works for me; especially since I’ve taken to the Valencian custom of having an almuerzo – a midmorning snack that can be quite substantial.

Both in England and Canada I have seen giant breakfasts advertised in restaurants; ham and bacon with eggs and toast, beans and other substantial items. While that can’t be used as an accurate measure of what Brits and Canadians are eating every morning, the fact that these hearty breakfasts aren’t advertised here in Spain clearly indicates that the attitude towards the morning meal is different. In Spain, generally, breakfast is a lighter meal followed by a day that can include small snacks throughout. In the Anglo world (and elsewhere), breakfast is generally bigger, in preparation for a day of meals without much to eat in between. (Not hard and fast rules, just general trends.)

The reality is that not too many North Americans are starting the day with a large breakfast, instead choosing toast or cereal or some other simple item. However, Sunday brunch speaks to the tradition of hearty early meals. Brunch replaces breakfast and lunch on days when sleeping in late is an enjoyable option. This is where all of the traditional breakfast foods that my Spanish friend’s mother assumed that I required can be found. Typically, I would have a coffee at home before meeting friends or family for a large brunch late in the morning. Hmm: that’s almost the same as having an almuerzo a few hours after that first coffee as I often do here in Valencia.

Breakfast for Visitors

Many visitors to Spain may find that they miss the option of a big, brunch-style breakfast. After all, when you’re on vacation your habits tend to change a bit. If you end up leaving the hotel or vacation rental later than you’d usually start your day, you may find that your appetite demands more than usual. But what will you find out there?

These days, in touristy areas of Spain you can often find an ‘English Breakfast’ advertized. But if you want to stick to more Spanish options you will still be able to find a variety of things to choose from.

Bakeries are great places to start the day. Many offer cafeteria style service or even table service; you can pair the coffee of your choice with any number of sweet or savoury options. Delicious pastries filled with chocolate or custard can also be ordered with ham and cheese or some type of sausage inside. And if that doesn’t match your appetite, you can also often order a bocata (small sandwich) with any number of ingredients.
Cafés will also usually offer a variety of sweet and savoury choices, sometimes presenting a set breakfast at a very reasonable price. These often include tostadas (thickly sliced and toasted bread) topped with anything from simple olive oil, tomato, cured ham, etc, coffee and fresh orange juice. Croissants and other pastries are also usually available though late visitors may find the options limited.

What some visitors may find surprising is that alcohol is commonly consumed in the morning. If you order a beer or wine with your breakfast sandwich, no one will bat an eye. And if you really want to fortify yourself, you can order a sol y sombra ‚Äì sun and shade. This concoction is half anis and have brandy and traditionally part of a labourers breakfast. It‚Äôs no longer a very common way to start the day, but if you‚Äôre feeling adventurous…

Breakfast at Home

Vacation rentals are a great alternative to standard hotels for those who want to reproduce their usual breakfasts. I am a huge fan of Marmite in the mornings and there is just no way that I am going to find that served anywhere – not Spain or Canada (maybe England?)

Sometimes starting the day right can make all the difference. However you choose to start yours, enjoy it!

Too hungry to keep reading?

Go get some breakfast! Next week we will publish another Valencia Insight.

And by the way, we offer take-out! Just sign up for our Eat In Valencia feed and you’ll get hot-off-the-press content sent right to your e-mail. No tip required!

Photo Credits: Ivan Larcombe

Ivan Larcombe – Bio

After years of experience in the hospitality trade focusing on restaurants and even the Canadian wine industry, Ivan thought that he had gained nothing but the certainty that these were not the career paths for him. Now he combines his first love, the written word, with all that he has learned over the years to approach food and wine from a very different perspective.

A recent, but devoted, arrival in Valencia, Ivan is working hard to learn and share everything there is to know about the gastronomical offering of this beautiful region.

Ivan can be contacted directly through his blog: http://www.ivaninvalencia.com/.

The term ‘fast food’ has a well deserved reputation for poor quality. Fair enough. If this term conjures up images of processed hamburger patties warmed in a microwave and the like, than I heartily agree that fast food offers little apart from its immediate availability. But fast doesn‚Äôt have to mean inferior; at least not in Spain.

Now, before I go on about the virtues of Spanish fast food, I should acknowledge two things. One: I’m not saying that all food in Spain is fantastic – some of the worst restaurant food I have had in my life has been here – so please don’t assume that I am completely biased. Two: as an adolescent recently emancipated from the drudgery of life with my parents, I was virtually addicted to the worst kind of fast food that Canada had to offer – no judgement is intended towards those with a weakness for the offerings of international fast food establishments.

Now, down to the business of what Spain can do for the hungry in a hurry.

El mostrador – always on display

One of the Spanish words that corresponds to the English ‘counter’ is mostrador. In most bars and cafés in Spain you will find a glass case running part of the way – or all the way – down the main bar. This crystalline enclosure can contain untold wonders – wonders that wait, at the ready, for famished visitors to feast upon. For many visitors to Spain, this display may seem odd and even somewhat unappealing, but it just might represent the best offering of fast food on the planet.

Mounted and otherwise

The contents of the mostrador can vary greatly, but the principle is the same – the items inside are available for almost immediate consumption. Some of these display cases remain at room temperature while others are fully refrigerated; in both cases what’s inside is meant to be fresh and ready for the hungry customer.

One of the most readily available item is the montadito – little mounted one. The concept is simple: a slice of bread with some morsel ‘mounted’ on it, usually affixed by means of a toothpick. However simple the concept may be, the execution can range into the realm of the excitingly complex; many times within the same mostrador. If a slice of exquisite cured ham on bread isn’t your cup of tea, meandering down the counter you may find a more elaborate creation of smoked cod with roasted red pepper, or breaded fish with garlic sauce, or blueberry foam with onions – the list goes on.

I can’t think of a quicker snack or meal: a few montaditos and a drink at a Spanish bar. You can waltz in and within minutes be feasting on a delicious morsel. The only thing that will slow you down if you’re in a hurry is how fast or slowly you eat. Of course, if you can spare a couple of minutes more you might want to flush out your experience with a few tapas. My favourite quick fixes are patatas bravas and calamares a la romana (spicy potatoes and fried battered calamari rings). They are available just about everywhere and are usually the fastest items to order, but many other dishes are equally accessible.

Why so fast?

The Spanish attitude towards food is a loving one. Whenever I’ve met Spaniards living outside of Spain they have talked longingly about their favourite dishes from home. This is a country where a celebratory meal can last hours and hours – not really a fast food culture at all. But the international fast food chains do exist here, sadly. I just ignore them and so should anyone else who wants a taste of Spain, even if they are in a hurry to eat something.

In general, a Spanish meal isn’t meant to be fast, so the concept of making food readily available has less to do with meals and more to do with snacks. The idea is to take a short break from whatever it is you are doing to have a cold glass of beer, wine etc. and relax for a minute; and who doesn’t want a bite to eat with their drink? In order to make that short break as enjoyable and satisfying as possible, some food has to be ready to eat. Fast food, Spanish style.

I may just have to run out and grab a bite now…

Too hungry to keep reading?

Go get some montaditos! I’ll be back next week with more ramblings about eating out in Spain.
[Editor's note: In Valencia you can find many bars and restaurants that serve montaditos, you can do a search for them here on Eat In Valencia.]

And by the way, we offer take-out! Just sign up for our Eat In Valencia feed and you’ll get hot-off-the-press content sent right to your e-mail. No tip required!

Photo Credits:
montaditos by jtoledo
pinxtos by sergis blog

Ivan Larcombe – Bio

After years of experience in the hospitality trade focusing on restaurants and even the Canadian wine industry, Ivan thought that he had gained nothing but the certainty that these were not the career paths for him. Now he combines his first love, the written word, with all that he has learned over the years to approach food and wine from a very different perspective.

A recent, but devoted, arrival in Valencia, Ivan is working hard to learn and share everything there is to know about the gastronomical offering of this beautiful region.

Ivan can be contacted directly through his blog: http://www.ivaninvalencia.com/.

This is my first year in Spain’s 3rd largest city. I have never experienced Las Fallas and so what I can report on the subject is all quite theoretical; I have yet to live the experience. But my chance will come soon.

In fact, the Fallas are already underway. The opening ceremony (at which our little family of 3 was shamefully absent – blame the Spanish flu) was held on the 22nd of February. La Cridà, as it is called, marks the beginning of Valencia’s famous Fallas, but the real party doesn’t start until the 15th of March. We’ve been warned that the volume of life in the center of town is going up.

Irreverent Carpenters

I love the history of this Mediterranean festival for its basis in irreverence (a characteristic that I cherish in myself and others). Now, those of you who happen to know that this celebration culminates on March 19, Saint Joseph’s day, will be wondering just what is so deliciously cheeky about how the whole thing began. Let me explain.

Legend has it that the history of Las Fallas begins with medieval carpenters. During the short, winter days they, among others, used planks of wood known as parots to support the candles that they were forced to burn in order to see well enough to work their trade in the gloom. When the days began to lengthen enough to make these candles obsolete, in joyful welcoming of the spring, these carpenters would burn the parots.

Now, I ask you; what could be more irreverent than a carpenter burning a perfectly useful piece of wood?

Jesus’ Adoptive Father

The parots were eventually dressed up with other, more decorative, bits of debris before being consigned to the flames. At some point the Church stepped in and declared that this burning should take place on the 19th of March, the day of Saint Joseph. (He is after all, among other things, the patron Saint of carpenters.) Perhaps because of this official endorsement, the celebration took on increasing complexity and importance with the parots now made to resemble local and famous people and taking on a new name: ninot.

I’ve never associated Jesus’ adoptive father with springtime bonfires, but in Valencia this combination took hold to create what today is arguably the world’s loudest festival.

Friendly Warnings

It seems that since the beginning of the 20th Century, Las Fallas has been gaining strength. Today, thanks to new materials such as polyurethane and a mouldable soft cork, fallas (which are essentially either massive ninots or combinations of ninots that are burnt together) can reach 30 meters or more up to the sky before they are eventually laden with firecrackers and set alight. (Falla comes from the Latin word fax, meaning torch, by the way.)
But, as amazing as it may seem, the burning of the ninots isn’t the biggest bang that Las Fallas has to offer. That falls to, well, a really big bang.

Gunpowder is burning at the heart of Valencia’s unique festival. Both firecrackers and fireworks form a fundamental part of Las Fallas. The fireworks – fuegos artificiales – both open and close the weeks of events, but it’s the petardos – firecrackers – that characterize these celebrations. Time and time again I have received friendly warnings from my neighbours about how incredibly, unbelievably loud it is going to get. In fact, my downstairs neighbour just went to her parents’ house to sit this year out. She won’t be back until the 21st, when it’s all over.

More to Come

Next week, just as the real insanity is about to kick off, I’ll be back with more information about the structure of the events and the mayhem that envelops the city. The following week I hope to be recovered enough to give an actual first-hand report of what Las Fallas is all about.
In the meantime, you can take a look at some pictures here.

Salud!

Too excited to keep reading?

Go book your trip to see Las Fallas! I’ll be back next week with more information this incredible Spanish celebration.

And by the way, we offer take-out! Just sign up for our Eat In Valencia feed and you’ll get hot-off-the-press content sent right to your e-mail. No tip required!

Photo Credits:
Las Fallas – ninots by Fra Kushy
Las Fallas – Fallas 2008 by GJFamily
Las Fallas – fireworks by Stuart Chalmers

Ivan Larcombe – Bio

After years of experience in the hospitality trade focusing on restaurants and even the Canadian wine industry, Ivan thought that he had gained nothing but the certainty that these were not the career paths for him. Now he combines his first love, the written word, with all that he has learned over the years to approach food and wine from a very different perspective.

A recent, but devoted, arrival in Valencia, Ivan is working hard to learn and share everything there is to know about the gastronomical offering of this beautiful region.

Ivan can be contacted directly through his blog: http://www.ivaninvalencia.com/.

It wasn’t long before tapeo was one of my favourite Spanish words. Not only did I love the act of bar hopping and having tapas (the meaning of tapeo in a nutshell), but I loved the way the language allowed for the creation of this new term. A large portion of my Spanish was learned over a small portion of some delicacy or other in the bars of Madrid. If not for tapas, I may never have learned the language at all.

What are tapas?

At this point, tapas seem to be a global phenomenon. Like many other aspects of Spanish culture, tapas appeal to a great deal of people all over the world. But are the tapas that you are likely to find in the UK, the US, Canada or elsewhere authentic? What is the essence of the tapa?

The Real Academia Espa√±ola ‚Äì the body that produces the definitive dictionary of the Spanish language in Spain ‚Äì defines ‘tapa‘ as a small portion of some type of food that is served as an accompaniment to a beverage. That‚Äôs not saying much though, is it? If I gave you a rice cracker with a glass of water you‚Äôd hardly fall in love with the concept of tapas. Let‚Äôs start by looking at the origins of the word.

The Spanish word tapa means cover or lid. The verb ‘to cover’ is tapar. So it naturally follows that this is a small portion of food… wait, no it doesn‚Äôt! Where does this term come from?

The history of tapas

My first Spanish friends were madrileños – natives of Madrid. They insisted that their city was the first to serve tapas. According to what they told me with pride, not too long ago life in Madrid meant dealing with an annoying quantity of flies (this isn’t the part they were proud of), and that meant a lot of shooing and hand-flapping in the city’s numerous cafes and restaurants. Rather than avoid the fly-ridden cafes – totally unacceptable – people took to covering their drinks in-between sips with little saucer-like plates provided for that purpose. These tapas were topped by enterprising cafe owners with some morsel of food or other in order to entice repeat visits from the clientele. It caught on.

That’s the version that I like best, though I will never side with Madrid – or anywhere else, for that matter – when it comes to exactly where the custom began. Many say that Andalucia is the birthplace of the tapa and they may be right. I’m just here to enjoy them and pass the (mis)information along.

Other versions have various Spanish Kings involved either by virtue of declaring that alcohol could not be consumed without food, or by delighting in the healing powers of wine and food together, or by favouring an inn that was in the habit of serving wine with a slice of ham atop the glass. Maybe it’s the capitalist in me that sees more merit in the first version.

Tapas today

You won’t always get a complimentary morsel of food with your drink in Spain. In some places, like Barcelona, it isn’t a strong tradition. That doesn’t mean that there aren’t tapas to be had all through the country. In some form or another, you’ll find them.

Today’s tapas have evolved from a lid with a few olives to a diverse range of both simple and complex foods. You can often find offers of a drink with one or two montaditos (canapés) or some other small dish. For a very reasonable price, you can quench your thirst and appease your appetite – add some good conversation to the mix and that is the art of tapeo.

Of course there are still places that bring you food with every drink. One of my favourite places in Madrid was a little bar that served meatballs, chicken wings and other hearty tapas with every ca√±a (draft beer). I haven’t been back to Madrid for a decade now but I‚Äôm planning to pay a visit the next time I‚Äôm there ‚Äì I hope it‚Äôs still in business and still offering such generous fare. But then, if it isn‚Äôt there will be hundreds of other options.

Whatever form the almost infinitely variable tapa takes, and whatever its true origins are, its spirit is constant. An immediately available glass and dish to stimulate the senses and provide the perfect backdrop for conversation with friends.

Salud!

Too hungry to keep reading?

Go get some tapas! I’ll be back next week with more ramblings about eating out in Spain.
[Editor's note: In Valencia you can find many bars and restaurants that serve tapas, you can do a search for them here on Eat In Valencia.]

And by the way, we offer take-out! Just sign up for our Eat In Valencia feed and you’ll get hot-off-the-press content sent right to your e-mail. No tip required!

Photo Credits:
Tapas РTabla de Ibéricos by deramaenrama
Tapas – Madrid window by grassvalleylarry

Ivan Larcombe – Bio

After years of experience in the hospitality trade focusing on restaurants and even the Canadian wine industry, Ivan thought that he had gained nothing but the certainty that these were not the career paths for him. Now he combines his first love, the written word, with all that he has learned over the years to approach food and wine from a very different perspective.

A recent, but devoted, arrival in Valencia, Ivan is working hard to learn and share everything there is to know about the gastronomical offering of this beautiful region.

Ivan can be contacted directly through his blog: http://www.ivaninvalencia.com/.

But on the third or fourth day she asked me a question that I just didn‚Äôt get: ‘Y, ¬øqu√© te parece el agua de Madrid?’ I thought that I understood the words, but I felt puzzled. My friend translated: ‘She wants to know what you think of the water here in Madrid.’ I still didn‚Äôt get it. What is the big deal about water?

It turned out that the question really was that simple. My friend’s mother was proud of the quality of tap water in Madrid and wanted to make sure that I stopped to smell the hoses, so to speak. It was only when my friend explained that not all the water in Spain was so palatable that I understood why this was a source of pride. To be honest, it had never occurred to me to question the purity of the drinking water and ironically her assertion that it was beautifully clean made me start to wonder if it really was. But there was nothing to worry about, her pride was well founded.

The last word

Agua may be one of the first words that most people learn in Spanish, but there doesn’t seem to be any last word on the subject. Visitors’ opinions about whether or not to drink the water vary greatly. Some scoff at worrying about the safe and clean supply of drinking water in Spain’s cities while others cringe at the mere sight of a glass of tap water. So – what to do?

I have never avoided the tap water anywhere in Spain and I have never suffered for it. While the mineral taste of the water in Barcelona takes some getting used to, it’s clean and safe. Valencia’s water tastes mildly chlorinated but is also not a threat. That said, I can attest to the fact that the water in these Spanish cities (and elsewhere) varies in taste due to its source and treatment process; if you are especially sensitive, you may want to make it easy on your system and stick to bottled water.

No cap on options

There are roughly 170 brands of water for sale in Spain. You will have no trouble finding plenty of water to slake your thirst. Just ask for your preference: agua sin gas – still water; agua con gas – sparkling water.

Most bars and restaurants will only have one brand of each, so the process should be simple. Now, if you want to ask for a glass of tap water, you can, but it’s not really the done thing. When you ask for your vaso de agua the server may assume that meant to ask for a bottle and bring you one. I have never seen anyone drinking tap water with a meal out here in Valencia and my native Valencian friend assures me that I’m not likely to any time soon.

If you want to get really fancy, you can try to match your mineral or spring water with your meal. You can find an article with in-depth advice about how to get the best possible experience from your water and food combination here. I’ll just stick to a simple approach; I’m thirsty and it’s wet. Perfect.

Too thirsty to keep reading?

Go get some agua! I’ll be back next week with more ramblings about drinking or eating out in Spain.
[editor's note: you could also try Agua de Valencia, which has more to do with Valencia than with water though...]

And by the way, we offer take-out! Just sign up for our Eat In Valencia feed and you’ll get hot-off-the-press content sent right to your e-mail. No tip required!

Ivan Larcombe – Bio

After years of experience in the hospitality trade focusing on restaurants and even the Canadian wine industry, Ivan thought that he had gained nothing but the certainty that these were not the career paths for him. Now he combines his first love, the written word, with all that he has learned over the years to approach food and wine from a very different perspective.

A recent, but devoted, arrival in Valencia, Ivan is working hard to learn and share everything there is to know about the gastronomical offering of this beautiful region.

Ivan can be contacted directly through his blog: http://www.ivaninvalencia.com/.

It was an interesting debate that began with a very general question: ‘What do you think of when you hear the term Latin America? What does that mean to you?’ The first answer from more than a few people was ‘la comida‘.

The Latin American Table

Arguably, Mexican food is the most renowned of all Latin America. It certainly has a strong and distinctive presence in many parts of the world. But what about Peru? How distinctive is the cuisine of Uruguay? Chile?

Despite my classmates’ connection with their home countries’ kitchens, our professor’s observation that there is no single Latin American identity is evidenced in the diversity of Latin American cuisine. The Mexican students talked of Mexican food, the Cubans of Cuban dishes etc. And my appetite rose as I began to realize just how little I knew about the rich gastronomic traditions of an immense and culturally diverse area encompassing well over two dozen countries, ten languages and half a billion people.

Misconceptions about Spain

When I returned to Canada after living in Spain, I often spoke of my experiences, as you can imagine. It’s interesting what assumptions Canadians made about Spanish culture and food. Most Canadians know little about the reality of life in Spain and I suppose that their relative intimacy with Mexico made it hard to avoid thinking that they were similar. For example, I was often asked if the food in Spain was all very spicy, where nothing could be farther from the truth.
I’m no expert on the regional cuisines of Spain, but I’m working hard to change that. And while I do,

I’m going to do my best to explore the Latin American offering as well. My home is in Valencia; a city that is also home to an immense number of restaurants that span the global gamut of cuisine. With the help of my friend Piet from Eat In Valencia, I should have no difficulty locating dozens of great restaurants specializing in food from all over Latin America.

First stop: Cuba

Just around the corner from me is a great little Cuban place called Babal√∫. This is where Piet and I got a real taste for Cuban food just a short while ago.

I won’t claim to be an expert on Cuban cuisine, but I will tell you that so far, I am a big fan. Babalú’s menu may not offer hundreds of dishes, but the flavours you can find there are varied and plentiful. In contrast to the strong, simple flavours of traditional Spanish fare, these Cuban plates explore combinations both subtle and complex. Our attentive server Maikel explained that Cuban food favours far more sauces than the typical Spanish kitchen.

I’ll admit that my experience with Cuban cuisine was limited to the seemingly all pervasive mojito and a few samplings of arroz a la cubana made for me by Spanish (i.e. non-Cuban) friends. The meal at Babalú was a far more satisfying experience.

It’s hard for me to quickly define Cuban gastronomy, even if I only limit myself to what I enjoyed the other day at Babalú. I have sampled some Caribbean cuisine in my travels (never in the Caribbean mind you) and know that plantains are often used. But what I didn’t know was that I liked tostones so much. Those and the cassava (yuca) with mojo, which was delicious but surprised both Piet and me by being made mostly of onion – a very mild and fresh addition to the dish.

A delicious guacamole was a great accompaniment to shrimp and the large garnish of a simple salad was drizzled with a fabulous dressing that almost stole the show. All in all, our appetizer sampler (degustación) was a wonderful mix of flavours and textures.

The beef dishes that followed, the burrito and the cubanito, were surprisingly different given that they shared a base of ground beef. I enjoyed the mixture of sweet and savoury that the cubanito’s ripe bananas and raisins, combined with a cumin-centric blend of spices, provided. I can’t tell you exactly what it was that I was expecting, but this wasn’t it. I was pleasantly surprised.

The wines on offer were Spanish with a nice selection of Valencian products, which always scores points with me. It wasn’t a cocktail kind of affair, but I will have to go back to sample one or two of the many interesting concoctions from their extensive list.

More to discover

I get the sense that I could spend the next six months exploring what Cuban cuisine has to offer and still not uncover all of its secrets. The striking differences between eastern and western Cuban gastronomy are intriguing as is the significant influence of the Canary Islands. But there is simply too much out there waiting to be discovered.

I will be going back to Babalú and other Cuban restaurants, I’m sure, but I’ll also be sinking my teeth into the challenge of getting to know more about Latin America’s rich culinary traditions, thanks to the amazing diversity of the Valencian restaurant scene.

Too hungry to keep reading?

Go get something to eat! I’ll be back next week with more ramblings about eating out in Spain.

And by the way, we offer take-out! Just sign up for our Eat In Valencia feed and you’ll get hot-off-the-press content sent right to your e-mail. No tip required!

Ivan Larcombe – Bio

After years of experience in the hospitality trade focusing on restaurants and even the Canadian wine industry, Ivan thought that he had gained nothing but the certainty that these were not the career paths for him. Now he combines his first love, the written word, with all that he has learned over the years to approach food and wine from a very different perspective.

A recent, but devoted, arrival in Valencia, Ivan is working hard to learn and share everything there is to know about the gastronomical offering of this beautiful region.

Ivan can be contacted directly through his blog: http://www.ivaninvalencia.com/.

My parents were rebels; they were British and they both drank coffee. There was never any tea in their house at all. But tea is a very British thing, isn’t it? And if tea is British ‚Äì despite originating in southeast Asia ‚Äì than what does that make coffee? About as misunderstood at tea…

In Canada, there is a romantic vision of coffee that comes from Italy. Espresso, Cappuccino, even the grande latte of the countless Starbucks shops all come (roughly in the latter case) from the Italian language. But coffee is no more Italian than tea is British.

The Italians may have been the first Europeans to drink coffee and they may have invented and later perfected the espresso machine, but the plant comes from Africa and the modern beverage from the Arab world.

In any case, as a soon-to-be naturalized Spaniard, I can assure you that some of the world’s best coffee is served here.

The ins and outs of Spanish Coffee

The history of coffee is a fascinating subject but I doubt that there’s a coffee drinker in the world who wants to hear about it before that first cup in the morning. I for one don’t want to interact with anyone until I’m at least half-way through that indispensible first coffee of the day.

But locating that perfect morning (or afternoon or evening) beverage as a newcomer to Spain may pose some challenges. The options here are virtually limitless but that isn’t much help to a half-asleep visitor who doesn’t know the ins and outs of coffee in Spain. This list should help you find what you are looking for. (This is all highly subjective…)

Standards

Café con leche: Half coffee, half steamed milk. Like a latte but better. When I went back to Canada after nearly three years in Madrid I could never quite satisfy my urge for this drink.

Caf√© solo: Coffee on its own, or ‘alone’. Elsewhere known as an espresso.

Caf√© cortado: caf√© solo with a splash of milk. Great for after a meal if a caf√© con leche seems like too much. The proportions of milk and coffee will vary regionally, but you can specify how you like it ‚Äì see the ‘Variations’ section.

Caf√© con hielo: Caf√© solo served with a separate glass of ice. Mix in the sugar while it’s hot and pour it into the glass to chill. Who says caffeine and heat don’t mix? Note: I just found out that this is called a caf√© del tiempo in Valencia, but don’t worry, they will know what you mean either way.

Caf√© manchado: Coffee isn’t always easy in Spain. In Madrid this means a small glass of milk ’stained’ with coffee, though not everywhere. Valencians would never order it this way. Maybe it’s a nube in Andaluc√≠a? I’m not too worried about it because no real coffee drinker wants something so weak anyway…

Caf√© americano: Spain’s answer to people needing weaker coffee. Caf√© solo with extra hot water. Still very much stronger than a North American drip coffee. If you don’t take you coffee black, ask for leche.

Caf√© bomb√≥n: Half coffee, half condensed milk. It’s like dessert and coffee in the same glass.

Carajillo: Coffee with a shot of brandy (coñac) or other specified liquor. Sugar is provided if you want to add it. One of my personal favourites.

NOTE: You can ask them to add whatever kind of liqueur you like to any kind of coffee. If you want a cortado with rum, just order a cortado de ron, etc. (See the ‘curiosities’ section)

Variations

I would feel somewhat precious asking for some tiny variation on a standard coffee in Canada ‚Äì it’s not the done thing. That does not apply in Spain. Every Spaniard knows how important the perfect coffee is. Get it the way you want it.

Even though you can pretty much ask for anything you want when it comes to Spain’s delicious coffee, these are the ’standard’ variations that will be most useful:

Largo de caf√©: literally ‘long on coffee’, for those wanting a stronger caf√© con leche, cortado etc.

Corto de caf√©: ’short on coffee’, applies to everything but a caf√© solo.

Con leche templada: with warm milk

Con leche caliente: with hot milk

Con leche fría: with cold milk

Descafeinado: When you order a decaf coffee, you should always specify which kind you want:

• De sobre: instant coffee ‚Äì always available
• De m√°quina: ‘from the machine’ ‚Äì real decaf, not always available

En vaso: You can always ask for your coffee in a glass if you prefer that to a cup. Depending on the region and the type of coffee you order, it may come in one anyway.

Curiosities

I can’t promise that ordering these will get you anywhere – regional variations aren’t always exported to the rest of Spain ‚Äì but they’re interesting enough to note for those with the desire to explore further.

Caf√© belmonte: This is a caf√© bomb√≥n with brandy or other liquor ‚Äì a variation on the carajillo. Aparently only a standard in Murcia and potentially named after a bullfighter, though that’s far from confirmed.

Caf√© trif√°sico: I’ve heard that this is what they call a cortado with alcohol in Barcelona. Coffee, milk and brandy or other spirit.

Café nube: This is a very weak café con leche known by this name in southern Spain, or maybe just in Andalucía.

Café sombra: A slighlty stronger café nube and in the same region.

Café desgraciado: decaf coffee with skim milk – this must only be available in specialty health-oriented establishments. (I doubt that most cafes have skimmed milk.)

Café irlandés: Not really a curiosity as you can get an Irish coffee just about anywhere, but I have to say that the Spanish version can be fantastic. I served bar for a while in Madrid and I used to hate getting orders for these because it was a real production – the results are worth it.

Tip of the iceburg

If what you’re looking for isn’t on this list, don’t worry. With a little Spanish you can order a coffee any way you like it. One thing I can say is that it will be good. I love Spanish coffee.

There is virtually no end to what can be done with coffee, both in Spain and in the rest of the world. If you just have to know more, you can start here.

Need a coffee right now?

Go get one! I’ll be back next week with more ramblings about the cultural and gastronomic landscape of Spain.

And by the way, we offer take-out! Just sign up for our Eat In Valencia feed and you’ll get hot-off-the-press content sent right to your e-mail. No tip required!

Ivan Larcombe – Bio

After years of experience in the hospitality trade focusing on restaurants and even the Canadian wine industry, Ivan thought that he had gained nothing but the certainty that these were not the career paths for him. Now he combines his first love, the written word, with all that he has learned over the years to approach food and wine from a very different perspective.

A recent, but devoted, arrival in Valencia, Ivan is working hard to learn and share everything there is to know about the gastronomical offering of this beautiful region.

Ivan can be contacted directly through his blog: http://www.ivaninvalencia.com/.

I love the Spanish language and think that everyone should try to learn as much as they can while visiting Spain, but the truth is that a holiday isn’t always about buckling down with text books. There’s no reason that you can‚Äôt enjoy the many delights of Spain if you don’t speak Spanish, but a few key terms and phrases might make things a little easier.

This list of restaurant-related vocabulary should whet the novice Spanish student’s appetite for the language and help satiate the more immediate physical hunger that a full day of sight-seeing usually induces.

Men√∫ vs. Carta

There are some words in both English and Spanish that carry a lot of meanings. Carta is one of those. It can mean ‘letter’, ‘map’, ‘playing card’, but most importantly for a hungry visitor to Spain, it means ‘menu’. In contrast, men√∫ (or men√∫ del d√≠a) refers to a fixed-price menu that is very common in Spain, especially at lunch.

A men√∫ is often an attractive option as it usually provides good value. It always includes at least two dishes and some combination of the following:
Bebida – beverage (beer, wine, soft drink etc.)

Agua – water (still – sin gas Рor sparkling – con gas Рmay be offered)

Pan – bread, indispensible in Spain

Postre – dessert

Café – coffee (Part 3 of this series will go into more detail about the delicious world of Spanish coffee.)

You will often see chalkboards listing the various options and condition of the day’s men√∫ which will also tell you what’s included. Look for the Spanish word for ‘or’ (simply o) which often lets you know that either dessert or coffee is included: postre o caf√©.

Use your dictionary wisely

There’s nothing like a good pocket dictionary to help you find that word that you are looking for or help you navigate a Spanish menu. That said, not everything can be found in the pages of a book, no matter how comprehensive it aims to be.

If you want a beer, you can easily find the Spanish word cerveza, but that doesn’t tell you the whole story.

Ordering beer

The first thing any beer drinker needs to know is how to order a draft beer vs. a bottle of beer. The rest should come pretty naturally. Ca√±a literally means ‘reed’ or ‘cane’ and refers to the stem of the glass that a large draft beer is served in. This is a popular option that you will often see offered with a snack of some kind like a montadito. It’s also common to ask for a cerveza de barril (beer from the barrel) if you prefer draft. Otherwise you can ask for a cerveza de botella (from the bottle) or un tercio. This last will get you a bottle that’s 330ml in volume ‚Äì one third of a litre.

Montadito: Essentially a canapé, often ready and waiting at the bar for immediate consumption – great for the hungry traveller.

S√°ndwich: You might see regional differences in spelling, but for an English speaker, this should be self evident. Is there a ‘real’ Spanish word for it? Yes. But don’t use it: emparedado. Not to be confused with a bocadillo…

Bocadillo: Something like a ’submarine sandwich’. The bread is crisp and can be filled with any number of things from chorizo (pork sausage ranging from mild to spicy), different types of ham, cheese, even Spanish omelette. Usually bare by Anglo standards, without mayonnaise, mustard, lettuce and the like. The best bocadillos are fine examples of Spanish cuisine ‚Äì strong, simple flavours and quality ingredients.

A Word on Wine

I am a wine lover in general and an aficionado of Spanish wine in particular. In many cases, however, if you aren’t prepared to order a bottle, you might do better to order a beer. While there are many places with a great selection of wines by the copa, many ’standard’ establishments will only offer a very cheap wine by the glass. Ask for options whenever possible ‚Äì seeing the carta de vinos can’t hurt. If there isn’t one, proceed with caution. Sangr√≠a anyone?

Sangría: Do you really have to ask? If you do, click here.

Cava: Spain’s delicious and plentiful sparkling wine doesn’t all come from Catalu√±a; many fine examples also come from Arag√≥n, Castilla y Le√≥n, Extremadura, La Rioja, Pa√≠s Vasco, Navarra and Valencia. I’m a fan of trying local fare ‚Äì go for it!

How many meals are there in a day?

It might seem strange to Northern European and North American visitors that the Spanish have lunch and dinner so late, but the secret to avoiding excess hunger during the hours in between is simple: eat!

The rigidity of lunch times at restaurants in Spain is often countered by the amazing flexibility of the many bars and cafés that also serve snacks, sandwiches and the like throughout the day. If you ask to eat (comer) and are turned away, you might want to ask for either an almuerzo or a merienda, depending on the time of day. Or just ask for something para picar ­– to pick at. Only on rare occasions will you find that there is nothing to eat at all.

Spanish meals

Desayuno – breakfast. Often just coffee but also frequently with some type of pastry, though touristy areas often offer toast (tostadas) and other heavier items.

Almuerzo ‚Äì mid-morning snack. For those having only coffee for breakfast, this light meal of a bocadillo or the smaller montado (or one of a number of varied options) is the only way to make it to lunch time. The timing of the meal depends on how early the person gets up but usually it’s eaten a bit before noon. Beer or wine is a perfectly normal accompaniment.

Comida – lunch. This is the big meal of the day and, in my opinion, the best time to explore the full richness of Spain culinary accomplishments. Give yourself two to three hours if you can.

Merienda ‚Äì tea. In Canada we don’t have tea as a meal, but if we did, this would be it. A coffee and pastry is a common choice but there are no hard and fast rules and not everyone indulges.

Cena ‚Äì dinner/supper. No matter what you call it, it’s the last meal of the day. Spainards eat late and light unless it’s a celebration in which case they eat late and long with no hesitation when it comes to indulging in something special.

Too hungry to keep reading?

Go get something to eat! I’ll be back next week with more ramblings about eating out in Spain.

And by the way, we offer take-out! Just sign up for our Eat In Valencia feed and you’ll get hot-off-the-press content sent right to your e-mail. No tip required!

Ivan Larcombe – Bio

After years of experience in the hospitality trade focusing on restaurants and even the Canadian wine industry, Ivan thought that he had gained nothing but the certainty that these were not the career paths for him. Now he combines his first love, the written word, with all that he has learned over the years to approach food and wine from a very different perspective.

A recent, but devoted, arrival in Valencia, Ivan is working hard to learn and share everything there is to know about the gastronomical offering of this beautiful region.

Ivan can be contacted directly through his blog: http://www.ivaninvalencia.com/.

Most of the time, restaurant etiquette is about social norms that are common knowledge for the locals and often impossible to discover for the casual visitor. I’m not a local – yet – but I do have some experience in Spanish restaurants and I may be able to help.

This short series is aimed at helping first-time visitors to Spain get more out of eating out.

Where I learned about tipping in Spain

Tipping is a big concern. Asking your server how much to give them could be quite embarrassing and lead to more miscommunication than it’s worth depending on language barriers. It’s also not always best to ask advice from an interested party.

I have seen a lot of wildly different advice out there about whether or not to tip in Spain and how much is appropriate. I’ve had two experiences that might shed some light.

1. I was once amazed when I had a telephone line installed in Madrid and my roommate tipped the technician roughly 15 Euros even after he left a great big hole in the wall
2. I worked as a waiter in Spain myself and I was never offended when I got a tip for giving good service.

picture of cafeteria in Valencia by Richie Diesterheft, published under Creative Commons.

A general rule of thumb is to “round up” or leave the small change. You shouldn’t feel obligated to do more ‚Äì or to leave anything ‚Äì if you don’t want to. Even I ‚Äì the ex-waiter ‚Äì won’t leave anything if I’ve been treated rudely, though that rarely happens.

Different Expectations

My wife and I came from consumer-centric North America and found that things were different here. Some observation that you may find useful:

Eating times

In general eating times are later here than elsewhere and restaurants are often only serving food during the following hours: 1 PM to 4 PM and 8 PM to 11 PM. Of course this varies by region and restaurant – here in Valencia we were recently turned away at 1:40 PM. That said, you can often find offers of sandwiches (bocadillos) until late morning as the Spanish tend to have an almuerzo – mid-morning snack – to keep them going until lunch.

Getting the Bill

You must ask for it directly. No one will bring it otherwise, no matter how finished you are.

Quality Check

Don’t expect anyone to ask you if you like your food. The assumption is that you’ll let them know if you don’t.

Food descriptions can fool you

A lot of salads have surprised us by arriving covered in tuna, for example. We were also taken aback by a plate of steamed mussels served just as described, steamed, with nothing else at all. (A purism we didn’t expect.) If you have questions, it’s time to practise your Spanish.

Kids

No one seems to mind how much noise they make. We are definitely the most uptight parents on the block and have been told to relax time and time again.

Too hungry to keep reading?

Go get something to eat! I’ll be back next week with more ramblings about eating out in Spain.

And by the way, we offer take-out! Just sign up for our Eat In Valencia feed and you’ll get hot-off-the-press content sent right to your e-mail. No tip required!

Ivan Larcombe – Bio

After years of experience in the hospitality trade focusing on restaurants and even the Canadian wine industry, Ivan thought that he had gained nothing but the certainty that these were not the career paths for him. Now he combines his first love, the written word, with all that he has learned over the years to approach food and wine from a very different perspective.

A recent, but devoted, arrival in Valencia, Ivan is working hard to learn and share everything there is to know about the gastronomical offering of this beautiful region.

Ivan can be contacted directly through his blog: http://www.ivaninvalencia.com/.

If this were a court of law, I‚Äôm sure that someone would object and put a stop to my ramblings as immaterial. Not to worry, we‚Äôll get to Valencia in a moment or two. This is all relevant…

I was a stubbornly picky eater as a child. Although there were a few favourite meals that I always devoured with gusto, more often than not I was left at the table long after my parents and sister and retired, ignoring whatever loathsome victuals I was required to consume – sometimes for hours. My poor mother surely suffered as she worried for my health and development. But that wasn’t a concern of mine then and even if it had been, it may not have been enough to give me the strength to ingest what was to me the utterly indigestible fare that was put before me.

Not the image of food-centric writer that you had in mind, is it? Ah, but the palate works in mysterious ways…

The Toronto of 1977 was not the city of creative international and fusion cuisine that it is today. When my parents arrived from England, two young children in tow, culinary exploration was not high on their list of priorities. They quickly moved to the suburbs where gastronomic discovery was as quaint a notion as my parents’ British accents. And that’s where I began to believe that meat was my enemy.

Having been born during the last year of World War II to a lower middle class family, my mother’s early life was not a luxurious one. England’s supply of meat was not plentiful during her early years and not often of great quality. I think that’s why she acquired the habit of always cooking meat to bone-dry and leather-tough: it had been a necessity when she was young and became a life-long habit.

When I left home at 18 I became a vegetarian, with the excepting of hamburgers, which have always been a favourite of mine. I wasn’t an idealist with objections to the use of animals for food, I just didn’t enjoy meat – or so I thought.

Spain taught me that burgers aren‚Äôt the only meat…

By the time I arrived in Madrid at the ripe old age of 21, I had been a semi-vegetarian for long enough to be daunted by the protein-centric fare that was on offer. (My exposure to seafood had been very minimal too and the occasional kipper that my father cooked and that left the house smelling like low tide hadn’t done anything to inspire an interest in me.) As I became frustrated with the lack of both vegetarian options and burgers in Spain’s capital, I started to make forays into the world of meat and fish. And I loved it.

What a difference a decade makes

When I got back to Toronto in 1999, the city abounded in great restaurants (actually it had for some years), and I was ready to explore. Now that my gastronomic interests had expanded to include virtually everything edible, there was no stopping me. I began to balance my eating out with more and more adventurous cooking at home and with an increasing interest in discovering wines to accompany this plethora of culinary delights. It was a far cry from my former experiences.

And the fates took me back to Spain…

Almost a decade passed before I finally returned to my beloved Spain. It had always been my intention to come back, but the timing just never seemed right. Eventually my wife, Katie, and I decided that now was the time. In June of 2008 we arrived with our two-year-old, Oscar. After a brief stay in Barcelona, we found what we think will remain our home for years to come in Valencia. For us, the city strikes the perfect balance between bustling urban life and the calm of a smaller centre; between modern amenities and a rich historic presence. And best of all, Valencia offers a myriad of tastes to discover.

The restaurants are numerous in Valencia and include a wide range of international cuisine as well as a superb offering of local fare. Although not widely recognized outside of the region, wines from the three D.O.s of Valencia (DO Alicante, DO Utiel-Requena and DO Valencia) range greatly in style and can often impress with their quality and complexity. Valencia is the perfect place for two Canadians as enamoured of history and culture as of wine and food to ‘settle down’ into a life of local exploration.

Why keep quiet about a thing?

In the coming months and years, I hope to share our discoveries with anyone and everyone who cares to listen. As “Eat In Valencia” embarks upon its monumental task or chronicling every eating establishment in the city, I aim to further assist others interested in visiting the city (or moving here like me) by providing insights into the amazingly rich culinary experience that is Valencia.

As the bells ring out in the old quarter, I can’t help but feel that the city is raising its voice with me in celebration of the adventure that awaits all of us who come here to explore. I hope that you will join in that celebration and exploration.

Ivan Larcombe – Bio

After years of experience in the hospitality trade focusing on restaurants and even the Canadian wine industry, Ivan thought that he had gained nothing but the certainty that these were not the career paths for him. Now he combines his first love, the written word, with all that he has learned over the years to approach food and wine from a very different perspective.

A recent, but devoted, arrival in Valencia, Ivan is working hard to learn and share everything there is to know about the gastronomical offering of this beautiful region.

Ivan can be contacted directly through his blog: http://www.ivaninvalencia.com/.